I have added this page for those pet owners who have been asking about grooming of their pet sheltie.
A well-groomed sheltie is a real pleasure to see. Not all pet people have this knack for trimming their Sheltie. So below I have added some tips on grooming and trimming. Not every all breed groomer knows the techniques in properly grooming a sheltie. I myself have seen first hand what can happen when with a sheltie in the hands of a novice.
Just simply brushing and misting of the sheltie coat can and will promote healthy new coat growth . Clean hair grows ! You have to make sure that you brush your dogs coat right to the skin to loosen all the undercoat to insure that your dog does not have mats. Simple brushing of the overcoat is not enough.
Your puppy should be placed often on a non-skid surface that you would be doing your grooming on. This will insure him that you are not doing this to frighten or hurt him. Put him on the table to clean his ears ,teeth , trimming of nails and feet . This grooming will become a routine and you and your puppy will feel better for it.
Equipment you will need:
Pin brush (no knobs), spray bottle, slicker brush, comb (narrow and wide), toe nail clippers, grooming table
Brushing: This is the most important part of grooming. If done properly it cleans and stimulates the hair. At least a thorough brushing once a week is necessary. First spray or mist the coat with water or water with a few drops of hair conditioner (human kind will do). Teach your dog to lie on either side for brushing. This brushing should take about 1/2 to 1 hour depending on the amount of coat.
Line brushing is a basic technique for brushing long coated breeds. Using a metal pin brush (or pin and bristle together) start at the shoulders and separate the coat in a line down to the skin to the base of the tail. Mist the coat at the skin to dampen the undercoat and brush against the grain of the hair, in other words towards the backbone, one thin layer at a time. Make a new part, spray and brush until both sides of the dog are completed.
Brush the tail against the grain- the way the hair grows, beginning at the root down to the tip, misting first. To do the pants, bushy parts on back legs, start by misting, then at the point of the hock hold back the upper hair and using a pin brush pull down a little hair at a time, doing a small layer at a time, similar to line brushing.
To do the ruff I moisten the undercoat and always brush straight up. The hair is always brushed towards the face. Start at the backskull and brush towards the ears, layer by layer always misting as you go. The sides of the ruff are also done this way as well as beginning at the throat and down to the front (chest).
The hair on the legs should be brushed so that every hair stands out and mist and brush the feathering on the legs and belly with the grain.
Using a narrow comb or lightly with a slicker, brush the head towards the ruff and do the ears especially at the base where they tend to knot. Combing the ears once a day keeps the mats away. Check arm pits and groin areas for any mats that should be removed or carefully combed. Try a little baby powder behind ears and in the armpits and brush thoroughly, this will prevent the hair from matting and if they do matt it will help get them out.
Nails should be trimmed close to the quick about once a month depending on the dog’s activity- some more, some less.
Bathe your Sheltie only when necessary. Average is about 3 or 4 times a year. Warm water and frequent baths can cause your sheltie coat and undercoat to fall out. Use a good dog shampoo and dry thoroughly. Show dogs require more bathing , trimming and conditioning of coat and body.
The family companion only needs to look tidy and does not require expert show trims. The feet should be neat and tidy and the long hair between the pads should be trimmed level and around the big pad. The hair on the hock bone can be trimmed to make it look tidy- trim to ½". The ears could be trimmed with thinning shears if you have them